How To Make A Hair Straightener Case

Don't know about you, but when I travel, non matter how organized I try to exist, I'grand always hurrying to cease packing my toiletries and make-up. I'chiliad also usually trying to gear up my pilus at the final minute, which ways there sits my flat iron… too hot to pack! This gave usa the thought for today's accessory: the hot tool case. Information technology contains ii hidden layers of metalized thermal batting. It looks pretty from the outside and is protective from the inside, so you lot can pack your curling or flat fe while warm… and notwithstanding catch your plane on time! Information technology's also cracking for your gym pocketbook.

Our hot tool case is cleverly created so you lot can pack it ii different means, depending on whether the tool is warm or cold. If the tool is warm when y'all need to pack it, put the tool itself in the within tool pocket and loop the cord around to the outside cord pocket. This way yous don't store the cord next to the hot tool.

If yous pack the tool when it is absurd, the inside pocket is large plenty to adjust both the tool and its cord, and you lot can put other items, such as a comb and/or brush in the exterior pocket.

The finished flat size of the instance is approximately 6″ x 20″.

Sewing Tools You Need

Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome 3160 QDC)
Walking Foot (optional)
Ditch Quilting Foot (optional)

Material and Other Supplies

The Loulouthi cloth we used is an older collection, but you lot can yet find cuts from online retailers every bit well every bit on Etsy. We found a remnant of our selection at Fashionable Fabrics. Nosotros too found some coordinating prints at Fabric.com.

½ yard of 44-45″ broad print fabric: we used Loulouthi Curated Bloom in AH39-June by Anna Maria Horner for Free Spirit Fabrics
Note: You could probably clasp by with a ⅓ yard cut, simply having a piddling fleck extra gives you the ability to nicely fussy cut the string pocket.
¼ yard of 58-60″ wide heavy cotton twill in a coordinating solid color; we used 100% cotton twill in brownish from Fabric.com
Scrap or ¼ yard of lightweight fusible interfacing for cord pocket
½ yard of insulating batting; we used Insul-Fleece by C&T Publishing
NOTE: If yous are new to this type of batting, have a look at our tutorial on thermal production options
One package of extra broad double fold bias tape for top pocket edges and entire exterior edge of caddy body: nosotros usedWrights Extra Wide Double Fold bias bounden in Berry
All purpose thread to match bias tape
Encounter-through ruler or yardstick
Textile marker, pen, or tailor'southward chalk for marker fabric
Iron and ironing lath
Pair of scissors or rotary cutter and mat
Straight pins

Getting Started

Download and print the Ii eight½" x 11″ pattern sheets: Hot Tool Pouch 1 and Hot Tool Pouch 2.
IMPORTANT: You lot must print all these PDF files at 100%. Do Not SCALE to fit the folio.
Cut out the patterns along the solid lines.
Post-obit the diagram on each sheet, tape the two pieces together. Barrel together your cut pieces and tape; do Non overlap.
From the print material (Loulouthi Curated Bloom in June in our sample), cut the following:
Use the FULL blueprint slice to cut I total xx″ piece
Use the CROPPED design piece to cut ONE 14″ tool pocket piece – in other words, cut the top of this slice at the horizontal line marked "Tiptop of Tool Pocket."
ONE 17″ 10 6″ rectangle for the string pocket
NOTE: We fussy cut each rectangle then the pocket print matched the background slice.
Ii 12″ x 1″ strips for the ties
From the solid fabric (brownish cotton twill in our sample), cut the following:
Use the FULL pattern piece to cutting One full xx″ piece
Employ the CROPPED pattern piece to cut I xiv″ tool pocket piece – in other words, cut the meridian of this piece at the horizontal line marked "Meridian of Tool Pocket."
From the insulting batting (Insul-Fleece in our sample) , cutting the following:
Apply the FULL blueprint piece to cut I total 20″ slice
Use the CROPPED pattern piece to cut One xiv″ tool pocket piece – in other words, cut the peak of this piece at the horizontal line marked "Superlative of Tool Pocket."
Cutting ONE vi″ x 8½" rectangle from the lightweight fusible interfacing.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Lath

Make and attach the narrow ties

On i 12″ 10 1″ strip, fold in each end ¼" then fold each side in ¼" then the raw edges run into in the centre similar to a piece of double fold bias binding.
Fold the strip in half again, encasing the raw edges and aligning the folded edges.
Stitch one seam the length of the strip, starting and catastrophe as close to each end as possible.
Repeat to create the 2d tie.
Place one tie at the eye lesser of the print tool pocket piece, 5″ upwardly from the bottom raw edge.
Place the other tie at the center superlative of the impress primary case piece, 1½" downward from the top raw edge.
Stitch each tie in place, following the existing seam line. I stitched dorsum and forth several times for near ½".

Notation: If yous adopt, you can skip this footstep and use narrow bias binding for the ties or ribbon. If y'all choose to use analogous ribbon, make sure it is 100% cotton. Anything else could cook should it accidentally touch the hot tool.

Layering and basting the two sections

Brand sure all your layers are pressed flat.
Discover all iii tool pocket pieces and all three main case pieces (print, solid and batting). Layer each set of three equally follows: solid right side downwards, fleece, impress correct side up.
Pivot each set of layers together being very careful to brand sure all the layers remain flat and all the raw edges, especially the rounded corners, are flush.
Machine or hand baste effectually all sides through all the layers. This will allow y'all to treat these three layers equally 1 piece during the residue of the construction. I used my Janome Walking Foot to control the fabric. It helps keep multiple layers from shifting.
Trim back the batting close to the basting line. This will assistance reduce majority.
Cut a half-dozen″ strip from the bias bounden and sideslip it over the top raw border of the tool pocket layered piece. Pivot in identify.
Edgestitch the binding, making sure to grab both sides of the binding.

Make and identify the cord pocket

Find the 17″ 10 6″ cord pocket and the 8½" 10 half-dozen″ interfacing. Following manufacturer's directions, fuse the interfacing to 1 half of the wrong side of the cord pocket piece.
Fold the interfaced pocket piece right sides together, aligning all the raw edges. Pin forth the 6″ side.
Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch forth the half-dozen″ side only.
Turn correct side out and press well.
Place the pocket on the impress side of the chief case layered slice. The bottom is the seamed border; the top is the folded edge. The bottom seamed edge should be placed approximately 4″ from the lesser raw edge of the primary instance layered piece. This is guess considering if you have fussy cut your pocket to match your fabric, you may need to slide it upward or downwards slightly to get a good match, but try to stay shut to the 4″ from the bottom marking.
When you lot have your placement set, pin in place, so edgestitch in identify across the bottom only.

Attaching the binding

Identify the tool pocket layered piece onto the main case layered slice and then the bottom curved edges match, the solid sides are facing in, and the print sides are facing out.
We are attaching our bias tape binding using the traditional method. I've summarized my steps, but if you are new to this technique, check out our tutorial: Bias Tape: How To Get in & Adhere Information technology.
You'll detect the bias record'southward folded edges are slightly different in width. Unfold the NARROWER border and position it right side downwards along the edge of the case. Align the crease of bias tape with the basting sew line on the case.
NOTE: You are working on the INSIDE of the case – the tool pocket side.
Outset pinning at the bottom. Leave about a 2″ of binding tail loose at the commencement, then continue to pin all the way around the case, stopping well-nigh 2-3″ from your starting point and leaving another 2″ tail.
Don't be afraid to take a petty time to futz with the rounded corners and feel free to use a lot of pins. The bias binding is fabricated to curve… you only gotta work at it a little.
Notation: Information technology'due south also a expert thought to pivot your lilliputian ties out of the way then they don't accidentally get caught upwards in the binding.
Stitch the bias tape to the material, following the fold. Because you are stitching right along the fold line, it's pretty easy to follow and keep your stitching direct. I continued using my Janome Walking Pes because you're going through a LOT of layers with this project. Call up to leave the get-go and finish of the binding loose. This will allow yous the extra length you need to join your bounden cease-to-cease, then attach information technology to the fabric for a make clean finish.
You at present have the tail you left at the beginning and the tail you left at the end. Unfold the binding strips and place the two binding tails right sides together.
Determine the point where y'all can sew together a straight seam that will allow your binding to lay flat against fabric. Pin the ends together at this point.
Pull the binding away from the fabric so you can identify information technology under the human foot of your sewing motorcar.
Sew a seam where you pinned the binding. Trim the tails to a ¼" seam allowance.
The binding should now be a perfect fit against the instance. Fold this loose department of the binding back into its original shape and pivot in place.
Finish sewing the bounden in identify, joining your starting and catastrophe points and matching the seam lines.
Press the binding up and away from the fabric and fold it around to the other side. Information technology should align simply beyond your previous stitching line.
Make sure your fold is even all effectually the edge. Again, you lot may need to futz with the rounded corners a fiddling bit on the back to make sure they lay just right. Pin well!
Here's what mine looked like from the outside…
and the within.
Edgestitch your binding in place, stitching on the inside of the case (the same side on which you made your get-go binding seam). I used my Janome Ditch Quilting human foot to allow me to stay very straight and as shut to the edge as possible.
Press and steam then it is squeamish and apartment.
Carefully check both sides; if any of the original basting stitches show, only choice them out with a seam ripper.

Hints and Tips

Make clean Finishing Choice

I used the steps higher up to create our sample, and it turned out fine. However, if I were to exercise it again, I recall I would choose to hand sew the binding in place at the concluding footstep (footstep #17 above) for the cleanest stop.

This is the type of finish many quilters adopt for their quilt binding. All the steps are exactly the same as above, but instead of machine stitching all the way around, slip sew or whip stitch the binding in place from the exterior (the cord pocket side).

This technique was used on our Ruffled Table Runner project if yous'd like to see step-by-pace photos.

Contributors

Projection Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation: Liz Johnson